Valentino: Uomo (2014)



The artist behind Valentino's Uomo is Olivier Polge, whose creations in men's fragrances also include The One for Men (Dolce & Gabbana), Invictus (Paco Rabanne), Midnight in Paris (Van Cleef & Arpels), and Spicebomb (Viktor & Rolf). Polge seems to know his way around the sweet-plus-rich-plus-spice structures, so Uomo was a curiosity purchase for me.

(Small bottle, of course, you never can tell.)

I'll spare you the details if you'd like to bail out of this review early: I don't like this juice, and that upsets me, because a lot of people whose opinions I respect say that this fragrance is a gourmand dream.

My nose disagrees.

I have no idea what's going on in this recipe (and I don't think the designer does either, judging by their own write-up), but the opening was tart and sour, then folded into something green, plant-like, and medicinal, and then blended into something that was trying to approximate the idea of "sweet." The end result: a jumbled, confused, olfactory cacophony.

If there is any kind of "chocolate" note (the designer only admits to vague "smoky and woody accords"), it is light and powdery and not very chocolate-like at all.

The designer ad copy says that the fragrance features "accords that change on the person over time," and contains "a touch of vagueness that upsets the balance." Well, at least that's honest -- it's very vague and upsetting indeed.

Nordstrom identifies the heart note as "crema di gianduia," which is an Italian version of Nutella. I suppose that's where some people are picking up a hazelnut/chocolate note, but again, to my nose it smells weak, light, sterile, and overpowered by the tart/camphoraceous marriage of the bergamot and myrtle.

The good news (or bad, depending on whether you like this scent): the longevity is strong, 8-10 hours.

Maybe my opinion will change over the years, but for now, I think I'll pass.

3/10 stars.

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